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The Correct Stages of Plastering (Explained by Professionals) 

  • Writer: Pro Trade South Wales
    Pro Trade South Wales
  • Jan 20
  • 4 min read

Updated: Jan 21


Plastering is not a single task. It is a sequence of controlled steps, each one affecting the strength, finish, and lifespan of the surface that follows. When corners crack, paint peels, or walls look uneven in certain light, the cause is almost always a skipped or rushed stage. 

Below, we walk through the seven stages of plastering as they are carried out on professional jobs—homes, renovations, and commercial interiors alike. This is the process that delivers walls and ceilings that stay flat, solid, and clean-looking for years. 

 

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Multifinsh Plaster suitable for most domestic jobs

Plastering Explained


1. Assessing and Preparing the Surface 

Plastering Explained, before any plaster is mixed, we focus on the background. Every surface behaves differently, and plaster only performs as well as what it is applied to. 

We check for loose material, dust, grease, old wallpaper adhesive, flaking paint, cracks, or damp patches. Any weakness here will telegraph straight through the finished wall. 


Preparation typically includes: 

  • Removing unstable plaster and debris 

  • Raking out cracks and filling deep voids 

  • Scrim taping joints, corners, and stress points 

  • Cleaning the surface so nothing interferes with adhesion 

This stage takes time, but it eliminates most future failures before they can happen. 

 

2. Managing Suction and Sealing the Background 

Walls pull moisture out of plaster. Some barely absorb anything, others drink it instantly. If suction is not controlled, plaster dries unevenly, weakens, and becomes difficult to work. 


We regulate this by applying the right primer or bonding agent for the surface: 

  • High-suction masonry is sealed to slow moisture loss 

  • Low-suction backgrounds are treated to improve grip 

  • Mixed surfaces are equalised so they behave consistently 

When suction is right, plaster stays workable longer, bonds properly, and cures evenly. 

 

3. Applying the Scratch Coat (Base Coat) 

The scratch coat provides structure. On brick or blockwork, it forms the foundation that carries the rest of the system. 

At this stage, plaster is applied to a consistent thickness and levelled roughly flat. While it is still green, the surface is scored with horizontal lines. 

Those scratches are not cosmetic. They create a mechanical key that allows the next coat to lock in securely. Without it, later layers rely too heavily on suction alone. 

 

4. Building the Floating Coat (Levelling Stage) 

The floating coat is where walls are truly shaped. Its job is not smoothness, but accuracy. 


We use straight edges and darbies to: 

  • Flatten uneven masonry 

  • Correct dips and bellies 

  • Bring the wall plumb and square 

This stage determines how the finished wall will look in raking light and how neatly fixtures, tiles, or cabinets will sit against it. If the float coat is rushed, no amount of skill in the skim coat can fix it. 

 

5. Applying the Finishing (Skim) Coat 

The skim coat is what you see—and what decorators work with. It is applied thinly, usually in two passes, to create a smooth, uniform surface. 

Timing matters here. The plaster must firm up gradually so it can be trowelled without dragging or tearing. Too wet, and it slumps. Too dry, and it marks. 


A well-applied skim coat should: 

  • Sit flat with no ripples 

  • Have consistent texture across the surface 

  • Dry evenly without patchiness 

This is where experience shows. 

 

6. Trowelling, Closing In, and Detailing 

As the plaster sets, we make several controlled trowelling passes. Each one refines the surface without overworking it. 


This stage focuses on: 

  • Tightening the surface for strength 

  • Removing minor lines and imperfections 

  • Sharpening corners, edges, and reveals 

  • Blending joints invisibly 

Good plastering here feels almost quiet. No aggressive polishing. No chasing perfection too early. Just apply controlled pressure at the right moment. 

 

7. Drying, Curing, and Readiness for Decoration 

Fresh plaster needs time. Forced drying—heaters, dehumidifiers, direct heat—causes shrinkage and cracking. 

We allow plaster to dry naturally with steady airflow. As it cures, the surface lightens in colour, signalling that moisture has evaporated evenly. 


Only once fully dry is the surface ready for: 

  • A proper mist coat 

  • Full paint systems 

  • Tiling or fitted finishes 

Rushing this stage undermines everything that came before it. 


The plastering process follows a fixed sequence. Preparation comes first, followed by suction control to stabilise the background. Structural coats are then applied and levelled before the final skim is finished and detailed. Once complete, the plaster is left to dry and cure naturally before decoration begins.

Where Plastering Jobs Commonly Go Wrong 

Most issues trace back to one or two missed steps: 

  • Plaster applied to dusty or unsealed surfaces 

  • Uneven suction causing rapid, patchy drying 

  • Float coats skipped in favour of thick skims 

  • Over-trowelling that weakens the surface 

  • Decorating before the plaster has cured 

Avoiding these mistakes is less about speed and more about discipline. 

 

Why Each Stage Matters 

Plastering works because every layer has a role. Preparation ensures adhesion. Base coats provide strength. Levelling creates accuracy. Finishing delivers appearance. Drying locks everything in. 

When all seven stages are followed properly, the result is not just a smooth wall—it is a surface that stays stable, takes paint cleanly, and holds its finish long after the job is done. 


 
 
 

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